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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.